I am running down the small red dirt road by Wema through the perfect warmth of late afternoon. The blue of the sky contrasts starkly with the dark rainclouds on the horizon, and the sun illuminates the clouds so that everything seems to glow. We run past goats and fields upon fields of corn. We pass a small girl carrying a huge bundle of wood on her head. Children chew on sugar cane stalks and scream at us, "How are you? How are you?" After we pass them, they giggle, whispering "Wazungu, Wazungu (white people)!" The rain is palpable in the air. Finally it begins to fall, slowly at first and then in torrents. We run harder, hearing the "splash splash" of our feet. "Alex, Laura!" we hear children screaming from behind us. News travels fast, and it seems sometimes like the whole village knows our names. We run on, and I greet everyone in Swahili. A group of women break into a smile, surprised and very pleased that I am speaking to them in Swahili. Some children ask me if I will take their picture, but I tell them I have forgotten my camera. We run on, surrounded by whispers and giggles, shouts of greeting, and surrounded by the excitement of having such strange people in such a small village. We pass a small herd of cattle, and at last we are home, wet but happy.
I sit in the back of a 7th grade Swahili class. We have just read a story about a very poor girl, who despite all odds gets an education and succeeds in life. I understood part of it, but I had trouble with the details. The teacher comes over to me carrying a large stick. All the students are looking at me expectantly. He hovers over me and begins to ask me a question, in Swahili of course. I suddenly feel about thirteen and I want more than anything to get the answer right. I listen hard. "If you came to school, and the teacher hit you twice with a stick like this, would you come back?" I pause, making sure I have understood and then answer "La," meaning no. The teacher breaks into a wide grin and the students smile too. The teacher goes on to explain the importance of perseverance. The students love when I come to Swahili class. They confront me when I miss a class. I go to their study period and borrow a girl's book so that I can do the homework, and everyone is eager to help me out. Some of the teachers have started giving me grades, and I think I am doing quite well, actually. If I were to stay here for a longer time, I think I would go to class every day, and I think I would become quite fluent at Swahili.
Alex and I go to the lower school. "Today you will teach Swahili," says the principal. I laugh, thinking it is joke, but I soon realize she is serious. I laugh again and tell her "I can be a student, but I cannot teach Swahili! The students speak much better Swahili than I do." However, there is no arguing with her. The next thing I know I am holding a third grade Swahili textbook and standing in front of a class. I shrug and begin. "Good morning students," I begin in Swahili. They stand up and greet me back in Swahili. "Leo, mimi nitakuwa mwalimu wako (Today, I will be your teacher)" I say, and giggles and whispers flll the room. I turn to the lesson for the day. It looks like some kind of poem, so I ask one girl to read it, but she starts singing instead. I realize that this must be a well-known song. Apparently all the students know this song except me. The class sings the song and then I ask them what the song teaches us. It is going quite well, all things considered. However, when I turn the page, things take a turn for the worse. This page is filled with Swahili tongue twisters and Swahili words I have never seen before. The real teacher enters. I ask the student to read the first sentence and then I ask her what it means. I don't understand her answer. I look around the room and suddenly realize the ludicrous nature of the situation, having a foreigner teach natives their own language. I give the teacher the text book and thank him, but tell him he will have to teach the lesson. He smiles, tells me that I was trying very hard, and we both laugh.
The big piece of news we just received is that the children are finally all going to be tested for HIV! This is something that we have been trying to accomplish from the beginning, but now that it is actually going to happen I have butterflies in my stomach. There is so much surrounding a positive diagnosis. I don't want to think that these children, who we have grown to know so well could have their lives so completely transformed by one test. However, in a community where the HIV/AIDs rates are as high as 30% in the adult population, the concern of a positive diagnosis is real. Nevertheless, the government will help provide antiretrovirals if there are any positive diagnosis, and in the long-run the student will be better off.
11 Days left.
:)
-Laura